Last month, we touched again on the possibility that we might see an all all-wheel drive lineup from Acura sometime in the future. For some of you, that might make you wonder how big of a move that would be, and the answer might surprise you. Let’s give a brief rundown on which Acura vehicles are available with AWD.

Which Acura models have All-Wheel Drive (AWD)?

Currently, four of five Acura models are available with an all-wheel drivetrain. All of these models come standard with front-wheel drive. The Acura ILX is the only model not offered with AWD.

Here is a list of the models on which AWD is available, along with what kind of AWD system they can be equipped with and how much it costs above the base MSRP to equip them so.

Note that Super-Handling All-Wheel Drive is only available on V6 versions of the TLX and Sport Hybrid versions of the RLX.

This chart we’ve put together lets us draw a couple of conclusions. First, the rumor about Acura becoming an exclusively all-wheel drive brand probably doesn’t hold much water. If we assume that MSRPs remain unchanged, things look ok for crossovers like the RDX and MDX, but it’s a different story for the two sedans. Unless Acura found a way to offer these vehicles at a lower price with all-wheel drive, it’s likely that phasing out the existing front-wheel drive base models would close more doors than it opens.

Second, the good news is that if you want an Acura with AWD, you have lots of really great options. Perhaps the ILX will even see an AWD option in the future. That would be a scenario where everyone wins.

If you have questions about how Super-Handling All-Wheel Drive works or you want to test-drive an all-wheel drive Acura, schedule a visit or just stop by our showroom. The Leith Acura staff will be happy to help you with whatever you need.

The post What Acura Models Have AWD? appeared first on Leith Acura of Cary, Blog, News & Research.

We’re back with more Acura FAQs. FAQuras? No, no, definitely not. Moving on.

Today we’ll be answering your questions about tires, the stylish black shoes your car wears. They do all sorts of great things, like insulating our cars against lightning strikes and, you know, giving them lateral grip and traction and all that good stuff.

Ok the function is pretty basic, but there’s always more to know. For instance…

What do the numbers and letters on the sidewall of my tires mean?

The markings on the side of your tires are more than just a serial code. Broken down into sections, each one provides an important measurement or rating that is key to equipping your vehicle with the right rubber.

Voila. Now, let’s go in order.

P – The first letter designates what kind of vehicle the tires are meant for. P is for Passenger vehicles. LT, another option, is for Light Trucks. C is for Commercial. This letter is often omitted from newer tires.

215 – The first number is the tire’s width in millimeters. Simple.

65 – Separated by a slash, the second number is the tire’s aspect ratio, sometimes referred to as its profile. Expressed as a percentage, this is a measurement of the height of the sidewall relative to the overall width of the tire. In this case, 65% of 215 millimeters. A smaller aspect ratio, or a lower profile, means you’ve got thinner tires suited for performance settings, whereas a larger aspect ratio, or a higher profile, will give you big, beefy sidewalls that will take care of you off-road.

R – Stands for Radial, the method by which this tire and most others are constructed. In fact, radial tires are so ubiquitous that this letter is treated as just another separator between the aspect ratio and the diameter.

15 – In inches, the diameter of the rim this tire fits on. Corresponds to the listed wheel size of your vehicle.

95H – This is the service description. The number represents the tire’s load rating, while the letter matches to a speed rating. Our sample tire is rated for 1390 lbs and 130 mph. Note that load ratings are listed on a per tire basis. The speed rating isn’t really that important because the lowest rating (N) is 87 mph, which is above any posted speed limit in the US. You’ve never exceeded 87 mph, have you?

M+S – If you’re rocking all-season tires, they’re stamped with these letters as a show of their Mud and Snow readiness. Summer tires lack this mark, and winter tires will show M+S as well as a symbol that looks like a snowflake over a mountain.

TREADWEAR 220 – Treadwear is a rating of how long a tire will last. The bigger the number, the farther you’ll go. The ratings range from 100 to 700, and this 220 tire is supposed to last a little more than twice as long as a tire with a treadwear of 100. Summer tires generally have lower treadwear ratings than all-season tires.

TRACTION A – This scale uses rankings of AA, A, B, and C to grade a tire’s traction during straight-line acceleration and braking. Cornering grip doesn’t factor in. AA is the best grade.

TEMPERATURE A – The more friction generated by a tire, the more heat builds up. A tire’s temperature rating tells you how much heat it can withstand. We grade tires on a scale that correlates to speed, with C able to dissipate heat from 85-100 mph, B for speeds of 100-115 mph, and A for speeds above 115 mph. Again, unless you’re doing frequent burnouts in your car and going well over the posted speed limit, this shouldn’t be important for you.

There are a number of finer measurements and notations along the inner edge of the tire, including the maximum PSI a tire can withstand (not the same as the recommended PSI located on the driver’s doorjamb), a DOT label that will tell you where and when your tire was manufactured, and details of the tire’s construction materials.

Now with a quick glance, you can tell anyone more than they ever needed to know about your car’s tires. This information is most valuable when you’re bringing your vehicle to Leith Acura for any kind of tire maintenance.

If you want to know about changing the size of your tires (not recommended) or your tire warranty, we recommend visiting the Help page on Acura’s website.

Did you know we also sell and install new tires right at our dealership? Ask any of our service experts next time you visit.

Below you’ll find a list of articles we consulted while writing this post, just in case you want all the nitty-gritty details.

“How To: Read a Tire Sidewall” – Car and Driver

“Reading the Sidewall of a Tire” – Discount Tire

“Tires 101: What Your Tire’s Markings Tell You” – Cars.com

The post What do the markings on my tires mean? appeared first on Leith Acura of Cary, Blog, News & Research.

In our efforts to answer your pressing questions about the Acura you drive, we’ve stumbled upon a startlingly common topic: brakes. People tend to ask a lot of questions about their brakes, and given how important they are to the safe operation of your vehicle, providing you with answers to those questions is a top priority for us.

First, a brief glossary.

Brakes – You know what brakes do. What you might not know is that there are two kinds of brakes, drum and disc. Drum brakes were more susceptible to what’s known as brake fade, where heat and gas would build up within the drum, thereby decreasing the effectiveness of the brake. For that reason, drum brakes have mostly been phased out in favor of disc brakes. All modern Acuras have four-wheel disc braking systems.

Calipers – The wheels of your car each have a corresponding metal disc or rotor that spin along with the axle. When you step on the brake pedal, your brake calipers clamp down on the rotors, slowing your car down.

Brake pads – These are high-friction materials fitted to each side of the calipers. If your calipers and rotors interacted on a purely metal-on-metal basis, neither one would last very long, so brake pads are there to make the whole system more effective and more durable. They’re the third party mediator that helps the rotors and calipers negotiate a peaceful resolution to the physics of friction.

Friction – Friction is one of the first funny science words you learned, possibly from that episode of Magic School Bus where they were playing baseball inside a textbook. This probably should have been at the top of the glossary considering how essential a concept it is for braking.

ABS – Anti-lock braking systems are used in most modern cars and have replaced the practice of “feathering the brakes.” The whole point of braking is to bring your car to a controlled stop. If you stepped on the brake pedal and your wheels locked up, your car would start skidding and you would no longer be in control of the vehicle. ABS pumps the brakes more rapidly and effectively than you would be able to on your own, allowing you to maintain control and bringing you to a stop more quickly.

Sidebar: Keep in mind there’s no such thing as deceleration. There’s only positive and negative acceleration. If you remember that, hopefully there will be fewer angry physicists in the world.

With all that covered, we should be able to answer your questions.

Why are my brakes squealing? I’m not even going that fast.

If you’ve ever come to a sudden stop, you’ve probably heard your brakes squeal a little bit. If you’re just driving as normal, gradually braking at reasonable speeds like you were taught, you might be more concerned if you hear your brakes making noise.

You shouldn’t be, though. Cabin insulation and noise reduction technology have both come a long way, but it’s still impossible to eliminate all noise from braking. The squealing you hear is high-frequency vibration, a natural byproduct of the friction created by the rotors and calipers coming into contact. The severity of the vibration is also affected by temperature, humidity, and road conditions, so cold and wet weather can exacerbate this noise.

Most of the time it’s nothing to worry about, but if you think the squealing is abnormally loud, or if it turns into a lower grinding noise, have your brakes inspected. It might be time to change your brake pads.

Why does my car make a groaning noise when I start it in the morning?

Don’t you groan when you first get out of bed?

Just kidding. That sound is also totally normal, and it comes from the ABS. Your ABS is so sophisticated that it performs a self-check after you turn the car on and start moving (which means it probably happens more than just in the morning). That noise you hear is just the ABS humming while it checks itself in the mirror, fixing its tie and combing its hair. Think of it as a reminder that the ABS is confident and totally has your back.

Why does my brake pedal feel like it sinks when I’m pressing it down for a while?

After you’ve come to a stop at a light or a stop sign and you’re waiting to get going, you might feel your foot sink down another inch or two. As you may have guessed from the theme here, this is totally normal and it has to do with your car’s power braking function.

With the advent of disc brakes also came power brakes, which introduces a brake booster into the system. The job of the brake booster is pretty self-explanatory. It boosts the force you apply to the pedal so that you aren’t having to do a full-blown leg press every time you want to stop your car.

The brake booster works in conjunction with the natural vacuum created by the engine. This vacuum fluctuates based on a number of factors, such as obvious things like how much pressure is put on the accelerator and less obvious things like whether the air conditioning is on. When there’s more vacuum, there’s more brake boost, which can cause the brake pedal to drop some. So don’t be alarmed, this is just more complicated – and totally natural – physics at work.

If you want a more thorough explanation of how the brake booster works, we recommend this article on howstuffworks.com. There are a number of diagrams that might help you better visualize the mechanism.

We hope this guide has answered a lot of your questions about brakes and maybe even addressed some concerns you have. Of course if you’re still worried that something might be wrong with your brakes, it’s always a good idea to consult the professionals in our Parts and Service Department. Feel free to bring your car to Leith Acura where our qualified technicians will take care of you.

If you have other questions, the FAQ pages on Acura’s main site and owner’s site are a great resource, and you can also call or visit us at our dealership if you still need help.

The post Acura FAQs: What’s wrong with my brakes? appeared first on Leith Acura of Cary, Blog, News & Research.

The Rust Belt got its name from the large concentration of industry in those states, with much of that concentration related to metalwork and manufacturing. Notoriously severe winters may also have contributed to the name, as the region is a pioneer of using salt and brine to de-ice roads.

Salt lowers the freezing-point of water and is therefore an effective means of keeping roads free of ice and slush, much more so than, say, a flamethrower or a microwave mounted to the front of your car. However, the residue left behind can hasten corrosion of all the vital bits of your car, namely the brakes, body, and undergirding. During the winter, it’s important to protect your car from road salt and corrosion, and we’re going to outline some steps you can take toward doing so.

Step One: Know What You’re Dealing With

You might look at the white residue that gets splashed up on your car and think that came from rock salt, but there’s a far more pressing culprit. It was determined a while ago that regular salt littered on the road would just bounce off onto the shoulder, where it can’t do its job (kind of like you if you’re stuck at home without internet or power).

Instead, states have started using salt brine to pre-treat roads. The North Carolina Department of Transportation (NCDOT) uses a mixture that is twenty-three percent salt and uses special application trucks to douse roads in advance of a storm. You can learn more about the DOT’s salinization practices on the official website.

In addition to being more effective at combating ice, brine is also more economical. It costs the state fifteen cents to manufacture a gallon of salt brine, and only six dollars to pre-treat one lane mile. It would cost almost fifteen dollars to cover that same lane mile in rock salt after a storm.

Step Two: Wax On…

So salt brine is our first line of defense against icy roads, but it is also way worse for your car, even more than rock salt. Take a cue from the NCDOT: prevention is better than reaction. You should give your car a good waxing in advance of the winter season. This way you’ve got a layer of protection between your vehicle and all that harmful NaCl.

Step Three: Wash Off

Even with a good coat of wax, you’ll still want to wash your car regularly. The worst thing about North Carolina winters is that they’re inconsistent, but the best thing about them is that they’re inconsistent. That means that for every week of frigid cold, there’s probably a week or more between of mild “meh, I don’t even need a coat today” weather. This is the perfect opportunity to bust out your favorite sponge and garden hose to give your car the bath it needs.

Some additional tips:

• Start with the highest pressure nozzle setting and spray from top to bottom, blasting the salt off your car
• Get down and really scrub out your wheels and wheel wells, where brine residue loves to hide
• Don’t use dish soap, as it will strip the wax you worked so hard to apply in advance
• If you run into particularly stubborn salt stains, you can add some baking soda to your rinsing solution for some extra oomph
• Take the time to dry your car after washing it, then apply more wax

[Tweet “Use warm water, soap, and baking soda to get rid of stubborn salt stains on your car.”]

Step Four: Protect Your Undercarriage

Unfortunately, the easiest parts of your car to clean and protect are also the least susceptible to real harm from corrosion. The tough part is getting underneath your car, where most of the brine and slush splashes up into crevices and gets stuck. Unless you have a lift in your garage (let’s be real), you’re going to need help with this. There are car washes that offer steam cleaning and undercarriage care, or you can bring it to our dealership for a full detailing and treatment.

Step Five: Don’t Forget Your Carpet

With all the salt and brine sloshing around on the road and getting sprayed up onto your car by everyone that passes, you’re probably thinking “Well at least I don’t have to worry about the inside of my car rusting.” True, corrosion won’t really affect anything in there, but the salt can still damage your carpet. Even if you kick the snow clumps off your boots, there will still be enough salt on them to seep into and stain the floors.

The best solution here would be to pick up some all-weather floor mats, you know, the heavy-duty rubber kind. If you’re already looking at some stains, here’s a quick and easy removal method.

• Mix up a solution of half warm water, half white vinegar
• Use a spray bottle on the stained carpet, or pour some if you don’t have access to a spray bottle
• Scrub gently to bring the salt to the surface (If you scrub too hard, you’ll only bury it further)
• Use a towel to absorb the salt, laying it over the stain and pressing down
• Repeat as necessary until the stain is gone

[Tweet “White vinegar and warm water will lift salt stains out of your floor mats.”]

If you don’t see immediate results, try it again. Salt stains are stubborn, but they aren’t permanent.

Step Six: The Dealership Difference

If you need help with any of the above, our service and parts department is here to help you prepare for anything. We’ll be one of the last places to close in winter weather, so you can count on our staff to get your car the treatment it needs. Those all-weather floor mats you’ve heard so much about? We’ve got them. That undercarriage treatment you need? We can do it. Think your car is already suffering from some corrosive damage? We’ll fix it. Please don’t hesitate to call or visit us if you need assistance.

We hope this post is helpful to you and your friends. If you like our advice, share it with others so that everyone can keep their cars in the best condition.

The post How to Protect Your Car from Road Salt and Corrosion appeared first on Leith Acura of Cary, Blog, News & Research.

This post originally appeared on the Leith Cars blog.

Well, this day hasn’t gone as expected. It seems like it’s been a while since we woke up and were surprised by a sudden snowstorm. We can only imagine how much more unpleasant this weather is for people who had already set out on their commute before it started. Hopefully you aren’t stuck at work now, or worse, stranded out on the road.

If you’re in a bind, we do want to offer you some advice and tips for winter driving. To be clear, it’s better to avoid driving in the snow if at all possible. If it’s a day like today, though, and you didn’t have much warning, we hope this list will better prepare you for unpleasant conditions.

Slow down – Everyone speeds on a regular day, probably going about five to ten mph above the posted speed limit. On a snow day, you should be driving about five to ten mph below that same speed limit.

Increase your follow distance – In Driver’s Ed you learned to put two to three seconds between you and the car in front of you. If there’s snow on the ground, you’d better make it about eight seconds if you want to be safe. Give yourself the space you need to stop if you need to.

Accelerate/decelerate gradually – It won’t take much effort at all to get your wheels spinning, so you really want to apply pressure to the gas pedal as slowly as possible. Give your tires a chance to find some traction. Similarly, if you just slam on the brakes suddenly, you’re more like to go skidding off the road sideways. Start slowing down well in advance of when you need to, and if you can help it…

Don’t stop – Momentum is precious in the snow. You don’t want to be going too fast, but neither do you want to come to a halt and risk getting stuck. With proper management of your acceleration, you ought to be able to coast up hills and around corners without too much trouble.

Relax – Remember that the white stuff falling from the sky is just frozen water. The world is not coming to an end. You will be fine. Take deep breaths, put some music on, and remain calm.

Look where you want to go – If you find that your car is skidding or sliding, don’t panic. Instead, look in the direction that you want to go and turn the steering wheel that way. Don’t slam on the brakes, don’t gun the accelerator. You should have plenty of space and time to regain control if you’ve followed the rest of this advice.

Stay home – Don’t put yourself in a situation where you have to contend with nature if possible. If you do have to drive through the snow, stay put once you reach your destination.

We’ve based our list off of AAA’s winter driving tips, so you can find more thoughts on this subject over there.

The post 7 Tips for Winter Driving appeared first on Leith Acura of Cary, Blog, News & Research.

If you follow a lot of car news, you’re probably familiar with the cycle that bloggers and journalists go through every time a new car is on its way to the street. There’s the initial announcement, followed by some teased sketches, then maybe a concept car or a prototype, and eventually the production model is photographed, reviewed, and distributed. Sprinkled throughout this process is the publication and scrutiny of spy shots, photographs nabbed by the paparazzi of the automotive world. Automakers know these people are out there, which is why they go to great lengths to camouflage their cars during testing.

Generally there are two kinds of camo in use by automakers, each corresponding to a different phase of development. In the initial stages of testing, you’re more likely to see cars wearing bulky foam masks and covered in black canvas. This kind of cover provides near total obfuscation, distorting the shape of the vehicle and hiding new features and equipment. It has drawbacks that prevent it from being used through the whole development process, though.

For one, as technology in cars grows more advanced, this kind of heavy duty camouflage becomes more of a burden and gets in the way of more than just pictures. Consider cars that are mounted with advanced radar and sensor arrays. These systems have to be tested without hindrance. For two, performance testing can’t be done wearing the full gear without returning inaccurate numbers. Full camo can impede cooling systems, suspension tuning, and aerodynamic evaluation.

The solution then is a second kind of camouflage called dazzle. You’ve probably seen spy shots of cars that look like they’re wearing a checkerboard or houndstooth wrap. You might even say “Well what’s the point of that? You can see the whole car?” Dazzle dates back to the First World War and was used on early battleships. The point is to use varied lines and shapes to break up the patterns that are generally recognized by your eyes. So while someone might spot a ship at sea, dazzle would make it harder for you to determine what kind of ship it was.

It works the same way with cars. The outlandish patterns that the engineers dream up can cast light on body work that would normally be shadowed, and it can darken the parts that are meant to shine. This tricks your eyes into seeing a different car, or at the minimum it will conceal many of the true character lines on a new model.

Dazzle has the added bonus of wreaking havoc on modern cameras. Autofocus has a difficult time figuring out what to sharpen or smooth because of the uneven colors and lines. This doesn’t stop the seasoned spies, but it helps prevent just anyone from snapping a picture with their camera phone.

We’ve explained a lot of the how, but the title asks “Why do carmakers camouflage their cars?” All the padding and dazzle in the world doesn’t stop most journalists from figuring what a car is and sharing it. That’s true, but brands still love to keep their secrets as close to the chest as possible, and they will do whatever they can do to preserve the reaction from a reveal.

If you’re interested in learning more about car camouflage, we recommend this article on Gizmodo, and this one on Autoblog.

Leith Acura is the best place to find a used Acura in the Raleigh area.

The post Why do automakers camouflage cars? appeared first on Leith Acura of Cary, Blog, News & Research.

First of all, we’re not going to do any math. Or science. No math or science. This is a numbers-free space. We’re just not going to do it, and you can’t make us.

We will apply a Seinfeldian linguistic analysis, however (don’t worry, it will only take a moment). Ahem:

What’s the deal with torque? It’s kind of like horsepower. Sounds like horsepower. Has something to do with power. They should call it torquepower.

And now that’s over. The short answer is that horsepower and torque are two sides of the same coin. It depends on the car but generally the two work hand in hand. A modest, economy car might have horsepower and torque numbers in the 200s range. A performance car might have numbers in the 400s range.

Torque and horsepower are the yin and yang of your engine. They are two measures of “Lands alive, Gertrude, your car is slower than the decline of the NFL in American culture,” or “For stuffing’s sake, Kevin, this car is faster than butter melting in a microwave.”

Honestly, all the graphs and math that exist on this subject are just way too complex for the average driver, particularly since most cars use automatic transmissions these days. We’re not shifting gears for ourselves anymore, and that’s really where you might use any knowledge about how much torque or horsepower your car has.

In reality, when you give the car some gas, a computer decides when to shift gears so as to maximize your torque and horsepower.

So, here’s the point: given that knowledge about horsepower and torque is largely irrelevant, don’t let anyone use them to impress you. “It has 400 horsepower!” “Oh really, what does that even mean?” And watch their mental gears slow to a crawl (ironic, isn’t it?) as they try to figure out how to explain that.

It’s similar to when a new smartphone comes out and they explain how much RAM or CPU speed it has. It doesn’t matter. What matters is how fast it loads YouTube videos of local news bloopers. Is Angry Birds smooth? Awesome. Will the camera capture this lizard before he shoots under the rock? Stellar. These are the important questions.

That’s it. Good night.

…

…

Are you still here? You really want some scientific whos-a-muh-whats-it? Oh, ok. Fine. One article makes the counter-cultural argument that horsepower is indeed the best measurement of acceleration in the real world (most articles argue that torque determines acceleration, which is true theoretically). We like this article because it swims against the current.

And for those of you who shift manually, this article has some refreshingly counter-intuitive things to say about how to optimize your shift points.

See? We did it. Gave you your pound of numerical flesh without writing it ourselves.

Now, if we’re done faffing about, why don’t you come over to Leith Acura of Cary and test-drive a 2015 Acura TLX. That’s the best way we can think of to learn what horsepower is.

The post Horsepower vs. Torque: A No Numbers Explanation appeared first on Leith Acura of Cary, Blog, News & Research.

We’ve syndicated this post from the Leith Cars Blog to help answer a frequently asked question.

You’ve probably noticed the long, laborious disclaimer that shows up any time someone mentions a car’s MPG. You know, the whole spiel about how these numbers are based on EPA regulated testing and actual mileage depends on your personal driving habits and you might not achieve the listed numbers in practice and so on.

That disclaimer is important, though. It’s crucial that you understand the EPA guy who tested your car was driving like your grandma, and that probably doesn’t reflect how you’re driving your car on a daily basis. This is especially true if you commute to work each morning in stop and go traffic. The sticker mileage might be beyond what you can achieve based on how you drive, but you can still track your progress and try to get better.

To do that, you’ll need to know how to calculate MPG, and that’s something we’re happy to teach you, especially because it’s super simple. The basic idea is right there in the abbreviation: miles per gallon. You’re calculating how many miles your car travels for every gallon of fuel it consumes.

The official U.S. government source for fuel economy information, fueleconomy.gov, lists two methods for calculating your MPG. The first involves using your car’s built-in odometer.

Step One: Drive to a gas station and fill your tank completely. Make a note of your car’s current overall mileage as displayed on the odometer.

Step Two: Go about your life, driving your car as you normally would. Eventually, return to the gas station and fill your tank again. Make a note of the updated reading on your odometer. Also note how many gallons it takes to fill up your tank this time.

Step Three: Subtract the first mileage number from the second one. The number you get is the total mileage you’ve traveled on this tank of gas.

Step Four: Divide the number you get from step three by the number of gallons it took to fill your tank. This is your MPG.

The second method takes advantage of a feature on modern cars called a trip odometer. It automates steps one through three of the first method by keeping track of your trip mileage separate from your vehicle’s overall miles. The next time you fill up, you can just note the required gallons and divide the reading on your trip odometer. This method only works if you remember to reset your trip odometer after every visit to the gas station.

Calculating your own MPG is a great habit to get into because you can see how fuel efficient, and therefore cost-effective, you are being. You can keep track of your MPG over time to see if you’re improving or if you’re staying the same. If you feel your numbers are a bit low, try to remember to be more patient while accelerating and more gradual while braking. There are other guides online about how to maximize your fuel efficiency, too.

We hope this tutorial has been helpful and informative. Remember that Leith Acura of Cary is the best place to bring your Acura for repair if you’re in the Raleigh area.

The post How to Calculate MPG: How Fuel Efficient Are You? appeared first on Leith Acura of Cary, Blog, News & Research.

The following is a seasonal post syndicated from the Leith Cars blog. We know that as the temperatures start to drop, many of you might have questions about how the colder weather will affect your car’s tire pressure, so this is us answering those questions and offering help.

So you’re on the way out to your car, dressed for work, briefcase in one hand, coffee in the other. It’s been a rough morning and you’re leaving five minutes late, so you’re thinking about possible shortcuts you could take. It’s also been getting progressively colder, and today you can see your breath as you get in the car and turn it on. Then you’re greeted with the last thing you want to see: the low tire pressure indicator.

Around this time of year as the temperature is dropping, you won’t be alone. Why does your tire pressure drop when it gets cold, and why is that a cause for concern? We have some answers.

Checking your tire pressure is already something you ought to do on a regular basis. For every month that passes, your tires lose about 1 psi through natural air seepage. Beyond that, they will also lose or gain another 1 psi for every 10°F change in temperature. Simple physics explain this phenomenon. The compressed air in your tires is a gas which expands when heated and condenses when cooled. That’s why tire pressure goes down when the weather gets colder.

It’s important for you to stay on top of this because underinflated tires will:

• Decrease your vehicle’s fuel economy
• Cause imprecise handling
• Wear unevenly along the edges of the tread
• In the worst case, overheat and fail at highway speeds

According to the National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration, some 600 fatalities and 33,000 injuries a year are the result of under-inflated tires. At the same time, the US Department of Energy claims Americans waste more than a billion gallons of gasoline while driving on under-inflated tires.

Some people are lucky because their cars will now automatically monitor tire pressure and tell them when it’s getting low, but if your car doesn’t have this feature, you’ll want to check about once a month, or at least before you go on a long trip. The best time to check is first thing in the morning when your tires are still cold (both from ambient temperature and from not being driven on in the past several hours). That will give you the most accurate reading. You can consult your car’s manual for the recommended tire pressure for that make and model.

For more information on tire pressure, you can visit the following links:

“Tire Safety and Maintenance” – AAA Exchange

“Air Pressure, Temperature Fluctuations” – TireRack.com

Now is a great time to check, well in advance of any holiday traveling you might have planned. If you do find that your tire pressure is too low, we encourage you to visit us at Leith Acura in Cary!

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If you haven’t noticed since it went by so quickly, the summer season came to an end. Though we have the fortune of living in North Carolina, with its traditionally mild Fall, it is also a time of year with much precipitation and a progression into winter that comes on leisurely — and often leads to an unprepared driver. One of the most important steps you need to take for maximizing your safety on the road from now through winter is a change of tires. We’re here to help you determine when a change might be needed.

Tire 1 (Left) – Think of this tire as your bohemian surfer. He glides over road imperfections caused by inclement weather with a relaxed demeanor and sure grip. Even when the situation seems daunting, the water kicks up behind him as he stays the course with unwavering resolve. With tires like these, “It’s all good, bro … I think I’ll call you Pea Pea-O Pea.”

Tire 2 (Center) – This tire is similar to your grandfather. He’s still aware and strong, but he has the potential to slip up. He, however, recovers swiftly before any damage is done; you still have to vigilant in keeping an eye out for him and employ a bit of extra caution to ensure everyone’s safety. When you need him, he’ll get you through. With a tire like this, “You’re a smart kid. Just don’t do anything stupid.”

Tire 3 (Right) – A tire with this tread hearkens back to your college self. You’re doing what you can to the best of your ability, but with your young age come mistakes. “Remember that time?” is more of a recollection how you surprisingly survived some incident instead of a relaxed walk down memory lane in your golden years. In other words, you’re not completely reliable to be the pillar of safety.

Tire 4 (Below) – This tire is your idiot friend. We all have one, and if you can’t think of who that friend would be, we’re sorry – it might be you. This friend costs you extra when you rent hotel rooms due to stains and/or damage, is clumsy and careless, and, quite honestly, frightens you at times. When the emotional rollercoaster is over and the next morning comes, you’re grateful that you are okay. It’s time to get a new friend.

Fortunately for you, we at Leith Acura Cary have a great selection of brand new tires that will keep you safe and secure on the road. Our staff can help you find a perfect match for your vehicle with cost efficiency always in mind – but don’t get upset it they try to suggest one that is a bit pricier. Remember: you get what you pay for. Still, our primary goal is to make sure you have a pleasant, quick, and enjoyable experience.

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